As we approached Milan, a glimpse of the Alps
The view from our room in Modena (free! courtesy of couchsurfing.com), looking out over the city center. The Torre della Ghirlandina, the cathedral's bell tower, is the tall structure rising from the middle; it was unfortunately covered while restoration work is done on it.
Modena
Modena's Piazza Grande and Duomo (Cathedral), together with the Torre, are UNESCO World Heritage sites for exemplifying 12th-century Romanesque art.
Another view of the plaza, cathedral, and covered bell tower.
Italian nonni. Love the guy on the bike.
The 12th-century Duomo
Duomo from the side
Espresso break
Modena salumeria balsamic vinegar tasting, where we had our first taste of the thick 25-year, 80-euro "black gold."
Central Modena
You gotta love a city advertising Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese on its tiny cars.
Of course, bikes are the preferred method of transport.
Electric wires for Modena's local buses
First night tortelloni-butter-sage deliciousness
Modena's famous indoor market, Mercato Coperto
Carciofi, my favorite
Fresh gnocchi and ravioli...
Parmigiano, pecorino...
Gooey gorgonzola, more cheeses than I was allowed to taste...
Delicious prepared foods, of which we sampled a few
Scott "works" while I shop. ;)
Happiness found, in a lemony artichoke heart...and the rest of the goodies we bought for lunch.
A pretty, quiet piazza
Aceto Paolo Rossi Barattini, a balsamic vinegar farm in the town of Formigine that offers free tours
Balsamic vinegar vines
The wooden barrels in which the vinegar is aged for years. Different types of wood are used for flavoring, such as ash, juniper, oak, and chestnut. The vinegar you buy at your local supermarket is probably aged in stainless steel for a few months.
All of the barrels are left unsealed; there's an opening under each white cloth. After at least 12 years, a small amount of vinegar is withdrawn from the smallest cask, then each cask gets topped off with the next largest cask, which holds the next oldest vintage vinegar.
Modena's imposing military academy
At Maddy's Bar, where the 6pm (free) aperitivo spread of prosciutto, mortadella, sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and more proved the perfect antidote for an afternoon rain shower
Ms. Maddy herself, our new best friend
The Romanian girl and Albanian guy who bought me a rose for our anniversary that day
The whole crew
Next stop: Caffeteria Giusti. The aperitivo here (again, free with a drink) was more sophisticated, with lots of little zucchini breads and spinach pastries, but the best part was the plate of prosciutto di Parma bought for us by a woman at the bar...another anniversary gift!
Our patron demonstrates the correct way of eating the prosciutto with the breadsticks.
Probably the best cappuccino of the trip, for obvious reasons
Modena curves
Shutters
Engraved pews at a small church
Labor Day (May 1) draws out the big crowds in Modena...of a certain demographic.
Ferrari in Modena...its main factory is in the province, just outside the city
In Bologna, tagliatelle with Bolognese ragu and a curly pasta called gramigna with sausage and saffron...heaven on two plates.
Bologna, near the university
